Friday, July 18, 2014

Scarcity

         We know people who have lived in Mongolia since the early 1990s. They tell stories about how everything was scarce. They barely had to look both ways to cross streets in the capitol. There was no choice but to live off mutton like the locals. A member of each family had to spend most of every day just standing in lines for basic things like bread.
        Here in UB in 2014, supplies are abundant by comparison. Six years ago, when we first came, shopping was still a challenge and exhausting. It took us months to furnish our apartment, spending whole days searching for one item like tall drinking glasses, a can opener, sheets or pillows. Many things we brought or had sent from the States like hair gel, almonds, and picture frames.  For over a year, we hunted for a living room lamp. The one we finally found is not one we would choose if we’d had a choice. But it was a miraculous, albeit, expensive, find when in the back corner of the outdoor market, there stood a 5’ tall fake mahogany floor lamp with a 1890s style shade with ugly gold tassels.
        Our apartment is comfortable now, and Mongolians have discovered how to make or import some of our favorite things like scented candles.  There are fruit and vegetable stands on the streets. But some things remain scarce and seasonal. Seasonal, as in, it seems a container full gets shipped in and then peanut butter or kidney beans pop up in every shop. But, a month later, when that load has been sold, the same items cannot be found anywhere.  And there are other things that are here but you have to know what they look like for example butter. Butter has always been available. We are in a nomadic land sporting 10 times as many animals, including cows, as people. But we bought what looked like butter in several alternative forms before we discovered the right stuff: sour yogurt butter, margarine, and lard. Yuck!
        This week, Jim, discovered another such camouflaged product. He went to five different stores looking for baking vanilla. He tried asking clerks in his broken Mongolian. He called Liz to ask for the right Mongolian spelling and pronunciation.  He even had one of my ladies talk to a clerk to ask if the store had the stuff, all to no avail. A determined shopper, Jimmy persisted, and on the way home, found a little paper packet of dried vanilla at a nearby shop. It was wearing a very tricky costume. Some foreign word for vanilla was used, Turkish, German, or Russian? Confused by the picture on the front, he bought several anyway. There was no vanilla bean pictured, just a giant strawberry on the label.

        When I got home, he was very excited to show me his little treasure. We examined the packets carefully. The envelopes were so thin, they barely seemed to contain anything. The word, Aromat, was on the front making us think that maybe it was a deodorizer rather than a spice. Curious, we opened it. It smelled like strawberries with a hint of vanilla, like fast food restaurant versions of a strawberry milk shake. A little leery that we’d be eating berry scented chemicals, I stuck my wet pointer into the fine white powder and licked it. Indeed, strawberry flavored powdered vanilla.
        We have never heard of such a thing. We’ll have to be choosy about what we use it in, strawberry-coffee might not be so great, but strawberry-vanilla oatmeal sounds scrumptious.

Saturday, July 12, 2014

"Sue avaray! Sue avaray!"
We hear the distant chorus early in the morning.
Carrying metal jugs sloshing with the freshest of the fresh, a herder comes hawking his milking in front of our apartment building. From our balcony, I watch our neighbors respond to the call bringing vats of every size and shape. Curious about the weather, the animals, life - they stand and chat with countryside folk long after they've watched their containers fill with ladles of creamy fresh liquid.
This is Naadam weekend when hundreds of horses and school age riders have gathered to race for fame and coveted prizes. So the 'sue' in the urn is likely mare's milk.
Since we don't drink mares' milk in the USA, I wondered about its nutritional properties. Google offered information from the International Dairy Journal. The conclusion of the 2002 report said,
"mare’s milk is, on the whole, more suitable than cow’s milk as nourishment for infants." (Nitrogen%20fractions%20and%20fat%20composition%20of%20mare%20milk.pdf)
So, get your plastic bottle ready for the next time you hear the caller's song.
"Sue avaray! Sue avaray!"